Beauté 40’s VS Pin-up


Previously on the Neo035 channel, a woman took the place of your hero to tell you about… You’re going to cook me a steak, huh? Rare please. Today I’m going to present some French outfits of the 40’s. 40’s women’s outfit. So are you sure, I can again take your place for a video? Yes, honestly it doesn’t bother me. No, but because after, some will still say “Neo is a fragile, he’s a submissive, he’s not a real man, he doesn’t do too much dude stuff.” And there are people, he doesn’t know that on YouTube, we play characters and we are not like that in real life… Frankly, I have my slap, I go on vacation. If someone else wants to take my place, good for him! I say, ciao the killers, bye! Well, sorry guys, huh, it’s going to be between you and me again… In the program, we will talk avout beauty and feminine hygiene of the 40s. So yes, this channel is followed by a majority of boys, and there is a whole slew of very funny anecdotes about the beauty and the men’s hygiene in the 40s. But the subject is so vast that it would take another video to be able to treat the subject correctly. Moreover, if there are magazines specialized in military equipment, the female subject often goes to oblivion, even if the women in uniforms finally start to be put on the front of the stage thanks to solid research and sharing, made by great passionate to whom I also give a huge thank you. Unfortunately, in the subconscious of people, the woman of the 40s is often limited to a very pretty mute creature who sticks to the arm of the brave soldier, and who doesn’t serve much except being pretty. All these parameters make complicated the development of a toilet and an outfit historically close to what could be that of a woman of the 40s. To complete the first video we made on this channel about women’s outfit of the 40s, we thought that doing a second video to talk about the beauty and hygiene of that time could complete the subject. For cons, don’t count on me to do a tutorial “crow’s eye” or “cherry mouth” because it already exists on the Internet and it’s very well done. Here, we have instead decided to focus on stereotypes and fantasies about women during this decade. No one mocking or bashing in this video, we know that the transmission is done in the benevolence. When we think beauty of the 40s, the first image that comes to mind is that of the pin-up and the desire it arouses in us. Then comes this ballet of timeless beauties that continue to charm us for decades. Whether it’s under the pencil strokes of Vargas or in the illustrations made by my friend Rubriqu’Aubrac, she never ceases to make us dream with her staring looks and endless legs. But what are its origins? It seems that her grandmother was the Gibson Girls who was born from the collaboration of the beautiful Evelyne Nesbit and the designer Charles Dana Gibson around 1895. She wears makeup and wears tight clothes, things unthinkable during this period. In addition, she’s for the right to vote women, she rides a bicycle and likes to stand up to men at social dinners. The fictional character Adèle Blanc-bec will be inspired by this suffragette with a mischievous face and prodigious curves. But it’s unfortunately, not representative of the other women of the time. We will find this generous female image in the portfolios of Poilus trapped in the hell trenches during the WW1. Some French cabaret artists as well as prostitutes don’t hesitate to pose nakedly to cheer up the stuck soldier. The phenomenon of the girl to be pinned extends to the combatants of all the nationalities, which will attribute to the French woman the image of a girl with the light manners. Drawn on Anglo-Saxon bombers by mechanics and sublimely represented by actresses like Rita Haworth or our beloved Josephine Baker who will be both a committed woman and object of desires. The pin-up remains very popular today, having never really left our fantasy factory. It’s synonymous with beauty, humor and elegance. She still lives as a burlesque dancer such as Dita Vonteese. The singers Christina Aguillera or Gwen Stefani will adopt the codes of the pin-up. The world of cinema won’t forget to highlight the pin-up, thanks to characters like Alex Vause in the series Orange is the new black or in the film “tour” which follows a troupe of current burlesque dancers all as bubbly and funny as each other. From now on, the pin-up is a factor helping women to reclaim their bodies and to break the complex in a society where everything is standardized. But what’s left of the glamor of the 40’s? I decided to take my camera to the salon du vintage in Saint-Malo to investigate what remains of the 40s in terms of beauty and elegance by going to question a specialist, whose job is to sublimate and photograph people through vintage fashion. I’m Emma, ​​manager of LaDanaide Epoch Photography. I’m a makeup artist, a vintage hairdresser, and a film photographer. I propose complete services for make-up and hairstyles of time from 1900 to 1950, lend of clothes, accessories and authentic decorations, and argentic photography. I work for individuals, for companies, for shootings, in vintage salon and for all events. My artistic goal is to recreate old photography authentically, so I only work in silver to keep this authenticity. My inspiration is to create identical photographs, so as not to see differences between today’s photos and the photos of the past. Why did you start to think about it? When I was a teenager, my sister was dressed in the 50s and 60s, so I had her example. So I did the same since I was in high school. I didn’t do my hair, I didn’t wear makeup. The more years have passed and my style has become more refined. I started to look for period pieces, dress and put on my hair after decades. After, I decided to make my job. Was the woman of the 40’s always a pin-up? No, the 40s woman wasn’t a pin-up every day. For me, the pinup is a male fantasy, born from the WW2. The pin-up is much represented at this time, but in terms of make-up and hairstyles, we are really moving away from the authenticity of women of the 40s. How was one to stay flirtatious despite the restrictions of the war? In the 1940s, women redoubled their imagination to be elegant. For example, they used tea to dye their legs to mimic the stockings. Staying coquettish under the occupation was a way to resist the occupier, and make him a snub. Also in relation to the hats: they were very imposing, very original. On the other hand, the make-up remained very simple: we are on fine drawn eyebrows, a clear and powdered skin, and to give a little gaiety to make-up, we redraw the heart of the lips. The hues of lipstick is really all that is red-orange. The women who were in the army during the war perceived matching make-up kits with their uniforms. What kind of woman had access to makeup during the war? Everyone had access to makeup but to different degrees. With the restriction, the price of makeup has increased significantly. So necessarily rich women benefited. But the poorer women, they didn’t make up much, but they were all styled in the 40s. So even women in the countryside put a point of honor to their hairstyle. So the hairstyles in the 40s, it’s on the shoulders, with curls. For example, I wear a patch boy, and we wind the hair inside, and we put a lot of volumes up. The typical hairstyle is the Victory Rolls, which are unfortunately taken over by the modern 50s pin-up movement, but which is typically 40s. What are the highlights for a successful 40’s beauty? As I was saying earlier, these are the loops, and in the 1940s, women had the Hollywood stars as an example. The 40s is 40-45 but also 45-50. With the “new look” of Dior, they have started to be very pretty. For example, there were evening dresses, cocktail dress, tea dress, morning dress. The women really regained their femininity after the first world war, the makeup was very glamorous, especially the lips with lipstick. On the other hand, the line of eyeliner didn’t exist in the 40’s. They put eyeshadow that went until then. We see it in the Kodachrome photos. In the 1940s, lipstick and nail polish were combined with clothing. We now know that makeup already existed in the 40s and that there was choice with big names like Jean Patou or Bourgeois. Bourgeois distinguished himself in the 30s by offering perfumes and makeup palettes for all purses. Moreover, the brand didn’t hesitate to play the card of the modernity by appearing pro-right of vote of the women in 1936. During the occupation, the recipe for their famous pink blush was unveiled to help the less well-to-do make-up at home during restricted periods, because the “do it youself” and the recycle were put to stay pretty. In addition, the criteria of beauty evolved with the appearance of the first paid holidays in 1936 and the craziness of the 20s. The body is stripped, the sport is encouraged and you have to have a beautiful skin. Beauty institutes have been growing since the beginning of the 20th century. Women will have the right to a whole series of very modern care for the time but that we now seem archaic or terrifying. The job of beautician will gradually become official and Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden will make their debut as a Businesswoman with a pragmatic spirit! Aesthetics and scientific research will also be associated from 1936 with the beginning of collagen in beauty creams. And speaking of cream, the famous blue Nivea was already used in the 40s and it has not taken a ride because it’s still found in most bathrooms today! If we know that the Third Republic insisted on schoolchildren on the role of hygiene a few decades before, that people went to baths public showers to wash, Or that it’s a comb and a good cleansing that saved Joseph Joffo during a control of the gestapo in his autobiography “a bag of marbles”, what about the different categories of population? We chose France to have access to as much paper and photographic information as possible. France is mostly rural and as there are few men because of the war, it’s mainly women farmers who work the land. But it’s not promoted by the French government, unlike the British and Russian women farmers whose work will be recognized as a war effort. The work of farmer is very physical and the country have so little opportunity on weekdays to follow a great beauty routine. Makeup is poorly tolerated by society. Although it’s a Gallic invention, historians struggle to determine if the soap was widespread in all regions but it can be deduced from advertising at the time that this product was already used by many people. This ad of the famous baby cadmium will be very popular in the 20s, which won’t prevent the boy from the poster to know the deportation. The harassing work of the week won’t prevent the peasant woman from taking out these Sunday clothes to go to church. Moreover, the Church is still very present in the mores of the country, which slows the population in its quest for cleanliness simply for fear of his own body and his nakedness. We manage as best we can with the water of the river and the well that is heated by the fire. We will do his laundry at the wash house or in the watercourse closest to his home. It’s also a meeting place sometimes a little confusing. It’s about these images to dissect the case of the Bretonne campaign which has experienced a strong German occupation, especially by Luftwaffe soldiers. The latter, despite the injections of the Nazi regime not to be closer to the occupied population, still had condoms, plus the village priest couldn’t be everywhere at once. The abortion being considered a crime against the nation and the pill nonexistent, the loves were complicated to manage for madam. As for the worker, she’s not rich as a creature but she has access to doctors and sanitary facilities at her place of work, and she spins the household in spite of a salary lower than that of a man for the same work, some things taking time to evolve. We know that, as in World War I, women formally replace men in many professional fields. There are grocers who run the shop, despite the prohibitions laid by the Vichy government at the beginning of its short existence, including that of not having access to the legal ownership of its business. Tradespeople were among the privileged professions in times of restriction by having access to arrivals before everyone else. The grocer can therefore enjoy the lipstick and lotions she receives for her business. There is also the teacher, who won’t necessarily make up because she embodies the vision of purity according to Vichy in the classroom, but she can still perfume and enjoy his day cream with his pay. The office worker, she can afford a touch of makeup because she made her big comeback in 1942 after being asked to return home by the regime of Philippe Petain who didn’t like very much to see women being autonomous, but who couldn’t do otherwise for lack of men in France, the valid boys being often sent to the STO in Germany or prisoners in stalag, barred maquis to see dead. It’s probably all these reasons that will push women to take the maquis too and to choose the rifle rather than the stick of lipstick. And what about the sanitary? Cleanliness is necessarily accompanied by a good in new technologies. But at first, they are more accessible in the bourgeois homes. When one is rich, one begins to equip his house with bathtubs and various toilets since the 1850s. In the buildings sheltering the popular classes, one shares a bathroom in the corridor. The tap water of the kitchen being often the only water point of the apartment, we manage as we can with an assortment of objects to carry water in his room and have the peace to wash himself far from the eyes. Nevertheless, one likes to make turbans to hide dirty or damaged hair, one dyes the hair in red or blonde peroxidized with products of pharmacy and one maintains his tuft curly at the hairdresser. Question cleanliness, we brush his hair to remove the sebum and we use a lot of Marseille soap since the 1900s. Shampoo as we know it’s very rare and more accessible in pharmacy than in commerce. And we use the water dish, according to testimonials, as a facial to keep a beautiful skin! What about hygiene regarding intimate parts? Toilet paper was created in the United States in the late 19th century, but we rub the festard after the big and the small commission with newspaper, moreover we don’t always have access to hard commodities. As for menstruation, if the first sanitary napkins were born during the First World War, followed by the appearance of the first tampons, the subject remains particularly taboo during the 40s. Many women do as they can, placing a cloth in the bottom of her panties. Rules remain a complicated subject still in our time and this system is, alas, still used in some corners of the globe. The medicine of the 40s is probably the ultimate element that makes us think that, finally, our current era also has very good sides despite the fashion of the tracksuit. You have to travel far to see a doctor in the field. It’s the pinnacle of quacks who heal with funny electronic cases that are supposed to cure skin disease or infections. Patients placed in psychiatric hospitals succumbed in large numbers to hunger and ill-treatment during the 1940s. The dentist pulls teeth in pain when it’s not the village barber despite a noticeable improvement in dental hygiene. The toothbrush exists and the toothpaste can be made at home. It’s funny to see the return of the recipes of the time in our daily life in search of more ecology in our bathroom. If our research is very much focused on periods of war, it’s worth noting that the Spartan restrictions and living conditions were the daily life of the French several years after the war. and before the acceleration of technological progress and the reconstruction of France. We focused our research on our region, Brittany because our objects and our sources were recovered in this area. But since history is a living science that is constantly evolving thanks to the retrieval of documents and objects, several anecdotes about various places in the hexagon can be added as a commentary to this video. The townspeople of the tourist cities South-East of France for example, were less prudish than in the depths of Morbihan. You could take care of your body more easily. I recently learned that the beret could be worn in some parts of France, while in Paris or Brittany it was almost nonexistent on the hair of women. While some statements are complicated, historians who have studied the subject all agree that care must be taken and keep the documents and objects we find to facilitate the work of researchers in 30 to 50 years. Being a history buff doesn’t prevent you from being a very modern woman either. On this, long live the vintage and the recycle, what we like is stronger than the few details for which we scrunch the bun, kiss kiss ladies and gentlemen! Well, are you done playing with my material? Yes, it’s good, I’m done… That’s good. Did you finish your video? Yes, I think I finished my video… Well. Thanks people, we have something else to do. Thank you, if you liked, share! And put a thumb, as usual! And above all, tell him if you like it, it will give him maybe want to remake a new one… And otherwise? I kill him. Directed by Neo035 and Oni Zuka Text by Oni Zuka With the help of Emma and Franck. Thanks to Agnes for her anecdotes. Thanks to my Tipeurs For my face, a little bit of dishwater, and for my bronchi, a little drink! Yec’hed mat!

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